Speedpainting Tutorial

Source: tanthe

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I made really quick tutorials full of swatches to send my mom who wants to take up watercolour painting for a hobby. I’ll share them here as I find time to type what I wrote her.


The first two pictures illustrate discoveries in mixing skin-tones. I try to find paints that make it faster/easier to mix skin colours - even if you’re adept at making these tones out of other colours, the right combo of purple and yellow can cut out a lot of time and money. The one I have most success with is “violet gray”, then “permanent magenta” for darker and wider ranges, and “purple lake” when I was cheap and it was on sale.

Mix these (sparingly) with raw sienna. The darker the purple the less you’ll need to add to your yellow (yellow ochre works as well). Ultimately, watercolour is tricky to mix so if you’re not confident right away make sure to paint swatches before putting a loaded brush to paper, otherwise be ready to mix with water on the paper.

For a lighter, paler, redder skin tone, raw sienna + brown madder is what I prefer, although as you can see in the first image (about half-way down the page on the left), “cadmium yellow pale hue” and “cadmium red deep hue” work just as well, and might be cheaper on you. With that combo, however, it’s easier to get stuck mixing a ton of orange. 

Back to permanent magenta, it’s great with browns to get darker tones, not just for darker skin but for shading. I keep three browns on my “skin” palette (last pic), “burnt umber”, “burnt sienna”, and “vandyke brown”. Mix it with some skin-tone, even just a little, to keep it from looking straight-out-of-the-tube.

So mix your skin tones, make a few test swatches to figure out how much water you need (every brush behaves differently), and lay down some washes.

In the middle of the first piece of paper is a gradation in a skin tone (violet gray + raw sienna) from really warm (“brown madder”) to really cool (“turquoise”). This was done wet in wet, to show what kinds of tones you get from adding warm and cool colours. 

To the left on the bottom are a couple light washes of colours painted over a skin tone (same ol’ raw sienna + violet gray) to show how different colours look on this mix when applied dry on dry. Blue (I used turquoise again) is great for some shadows, implied stubble, and veins close to the skin, reds and most browns for warmer shading, yellow for jaundice or boogers… you get it.

On the bottom right is an example of really warm vs. really cool shading on the same skin tone mix (just guess). The initial skin tone wash is a bit warm for the cool side, but the contrast makes the shadows really evident. Different colours in shading will have different effects that way. The only surprise here is the use of dark blue “indigo” which is great for coming close to black when mixed with other colours.

On the second page are two more noses, different skin tones, and just three extra passes with skin tone washes - although difficult to tell because I was lazy and didn’t wait long enough for them to dry after the 2nd pass. The extra passes aren’t particularly warm or cold leaning, but simply draw off of the initial tone I placed.

IMPORTANT: These little quick studies serve to be as economical as possible, using few colours but still not looking just like an awkward mix of red and yellow or brown and yellow. For a more detailed or accurate representation of skin tones, a ton more colours might be added - for instance the darker skin tone on the right would have more pinks, and of course different parts of the body appear to be tinted differently. Also never forget no matter what colour or how dark skin is, skin is shiny. Be mindful of even diffused light. At the same time - perfect representation of skin is hardly necessary. More expressive colour treatment rules.

But ultimately - colour in skin - who cares! Just play around with colours you like, build a base that’s easy for you to mix quickly for wet on wet or however you prefer to work. Play with colours on different planes or surfaces of the body, with light, and take everything I say as a tips - not rules - ‘cause watercolour is really unpredictable and that is often the best part.

Another note: I use pencil tins for palettes, it keeps things portable, easy to mix, minimal paint waste, and I can rearrange paints easily to make mixing easier. I usually have three but you could get away with one or two. If you try it out, keep the paints and empty space clean with jut a bit of water and the wipe of a cloth/kleenex.


The third picture shows a really quick, easy, natural black mix I make. It’s simply “Hooker’s Green, Dark” and “Dioxazine Violet” at almost equal quantities. You can mix it with a blue or red or yellow for a warmer or cooler black, depending on which you need. I included some gradation and overlapping swatches. Just keep in mind black can be very powerful in watercolour, or any opaque application of the paint, so use it sparingly and with a plan in mind.


Despite my shitty watercolour sketches up here, I spent a huge amount of being a child working at a cooperative gallery with some contemporary and purist watercolour painters alike so I picked up a lot. If anyone wants me to be more specific about something, or maybe produce a more specific guide or sketch for a problem you have, let me know and I can try to help out.

These were things my mum asked for and that I produced with her knowledge of the medium in mind, so if it really did interest you but you’re stuck on something, or found something I said vague and confusing, let me know.

Seiyuu Alias List


These days i was kinda pissed off because there was a lot of R18 or BLCD release annouced on Twitter and i couldn t read at all the seiyuu names or know who was hiding behind those names…

That s why i looked for their name and alias and put them on a list. The list below is NOT complete. It may evolve through the time so if you have any clue or name to add, please let me know (message, reactions, reblog…)

Seiyuu Alias List~

◆Aoshima Yaiba (青島刃) = Narita Ken
◆Asagi Yuu ( あさぎ夕) = Suzuki Yuto
◆Domon Atsushi (土門熱) = (佐藤拓也) Satou Takuya
◆Hagoromo Zanto (羽衣斬人) = Shimono Hiro
◆Haruno Kaze (春野風) = Hatano Wataru (thanks to @yildiz-blackthorne)
◆Higeuchi Waruta = Takeuchi Ryota
◆Hiiragi Santa (柊三太) = Ono Yuuki
◆Houdenteigatsu (ほうでん亭ガツ) = Morikawa Toshiyuki
◆Ichigo Miruku (いちごみるく) = Shiraishi Minoru
◆Inuno Tadasuke ( 犬野忠輔) = Yasumoto Hiroki
◆Kaiouraku (魁皇楽) = Kakihara Tetsuya
◆Kashiwagi Homare (柏木誉) = Nojima Hirofumi
◆Kurose Takaya (黒瀬鷹) = Kuroda Takaya
◆Margarine Tengu (マーガリン天狗) = Fujiwara Yuuki
◆Maximillian Nagisa (マクシミリアン渚) = Inoue Kazuhiko
◆Murakami Tatsuya (村上たつや) = Takeuchi Ken
◆Okino Yasuhiro (沖野靖広) = Takahashi Hiroki
◆Ooishi Keizou ( 大石けいぞう) = Kondo Takashi
◆Ryuusenhoudouin Zanjibaru (竜仙鳳堂院斬慈刃琉) = Kishio Daisuke
◆Sakiware Spoon (先割れスプーン) = Toriumi Kousuke (thanks to @yildiz-blackthorne)
◆Sakura Hiroshi (桜ひろし) = Maeno Tomoaki
◆Shimoda Hiroshi to Happy Turns (下田ヒロシとハッピーターンズ) = Shimowada Hiroki
◆Sugisaki Kazuya (杉崎和哉) = Taniyama Kishou
◆Sumeragi Hayato (スメラギ隼人) = Horie Kazuma
◆Sumeragi Mikado/Koutei (皇帝) = Tachibana Shinnosuke
◆Takamine Yuuga (高嶺悠賀) = Nojima Kenji (thanks to @yildiz-blackthorne)
◆Tamura Takurou (田村拓狼) = Eguchi Takuya
◆Tatsuya Hirai (平井達矢) = Hirakawa Daisuke
◆Toori Sugari (十利須我里) = Hino Satoshi
◆Wassyoi Taro (ワッショイ太郎) = Kawada Shinji
◆Yotsuya Cider (四ツ谷サイダー) = Okitsu Kazuyuki
◆Yuunagi Takashi (夕凪孝) = Kaji Yuki (thanks to @yildiz-blackthorne)

highcollargirl: holy frick i was going through your art blog and i saw the mecha stuff/cars/guns n ur really good at them DO YOU HAVE TIPS.... like idk i have probs keeping track of all the flat planes?? and making it look coherent i guess ajksdkfl... also how long did they take you on avg? *__*


loool tbh im still trying to figure out how to draw acceptable looking inorganic things haha ;;; i struggle a lot if im not following some sort of reference TTvTT ((thank u tho ;v ;)

rn my progress is something like this



i think it helps a lot to start off with rly simple shapes
like think of everything as boxes and cylinders and spheres etc
and then gradually add in more shapes and details and stuff ?
i think that helps to understand how light and perspective works on the thing ur drawing, so when u start shading it and stuff its a bit easier

sometimes when im drawing a mech or something i like to start with blocking out a silhouette of the thing instead of sketching with lines
like it helps to sort of get the proportions and do the pose or something

and then like
i find that inorganic things tend to look more inorganic when u sort of keep things clean and sharp ?? yeah

also doing that thing where u reference with shapes is useful too when drawing inorganic stuff


the lamborghini took me about an hour mayb an hour and a half
on average tho i think mechs and cars and stuff take like 1-2 hours ??
i think it rly depends on the complexity of the thing tho and like how much effort i put into doing details (like the guns took like 30 minutes ish each bc theyre simpler and i didnt rly focus on the details)


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lovelyvava: Hello! I really love your "coloring way", could you make a tutorial one day please ?


Hello there! thank you.
i’m not good at tutorials, but here are my steps.

Yowamushi Pedal - Mini Drama CD Volume 1 <High Cadence>

Imaizumi and Naruko get hiccups, Onoda fantasizes about a beautiful friendship between both of them, and Onoda tries to find a cure for said hiccups. Makishima makes an appearance too.



me as a teacher tbh

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